Choosing milk chocolate

The cocoa percentage is the whole decision, and 25% and 55% are barely the same product.

beginner

If you read nothing else

Look at the percentage, and try dark milk at 50–55%. The gap between a 25% bar and a 55% bar is larger than the gap between many dark chocolates.

The percentage matters more here than in dark

EU law permits milk chocolate at 25% cocoa solids, and a great deal of mass-market milk chocolate sits near that floor. At 25% the flavour is dairy and sugar with cocoa in the background.

At 40% the chocolate is audible. At 55% — dark milk territory — origin character comes through and a single-origin claim starts to mean something. That is a bigger range of experience than the word 'milk chocolate' suggests.

Dark milk is the category to look for

Dark milk at 45–65% is the most broadly likeable thing in craft chocolate, and it is the single best category for someone who thinks they dislike dark chocolate.

It keeps the dairy roundness that makes milk chocolate comfortable while carrying enough cocoa for the bean to matter. It is also almost entirely a craft category, so it is rarely on a supermarket shelf.

Where the milk came from

The milk process leaves a bigger mark than most people expect. Crumb-process chocolate — the British style — cooks milk, sugar and cocoa together and develops a distinctly caramelised, slightly tangy character. Powder-process chocolate is cleaner and milder.

Neither is better. But a reader who dislikes British milk chocolate and assumes they dislike milk chocolate has usually not tried a powder-process Swiss-style bar, and vice versa.

Covered in this guide

Sources

  • ChocolateHQ editorial synthesisChocolateHQ(citation identity confirmed; passage not re-read)
  • Directive 2000/36/EC of the European Parliament and of the Council relating to cocoa and chocolate products intended for human consumptionEuropean Parliament and Council of the European Union, 2000(citation identity confirmed; passage not re-read)