Spanish chocolate and the thick-drinking tradition

Europe's oldest chocolate culture, and the one that kept the drink thick when everybody else thinned it out.

beginner

If you read nothing else

Spanish drinking chocolate is thick by design, thickened with starch, and descends more directly from the Mesoamerican drink than any other European preparation.

Spain got there first

Chocolate entered Europe through Spain in the sixteenth century and stayed largely there for several generations. The adaptations that made it European — sugar in, chilli out, cinnamon retained, served hot — were made during that period, and everywhere else in Europe inherited a version of the Spanish drink.

What Spain did not inherit was the later northern European move to a thin milk-based drink. The Spanish preparation stayed close to what it started as.

What chocolate a la taza actually is

Thick enough to coat a spoon, usually thickened with cornflour, made with water or a small amount of milk, and considerably more concentrated than a mug of hot chocolate.

The starch is not a shortcut. It sets a texture cocoa butter cannot produce at drinking temperature, and the drink is designed around it. Products sold as chocolate a la taza are formulated with the starch already in them, which is why they behave differently from cocoa powder.

Churros, and the hours

The classic service is with churros — fried, salted rather than sweet, and dipped rather than dunked in a drink. It is eaten at breakfast and after a night out, and it appears at winter festivals.

A chocolatería is a specific kind of establishment, some of them very old, and the chocolate is made to a house consistency. Ordering it expecting a European hot chocolate will surprise you; it is nearer to a warm sauce.

Covered in this guide

Sources

  • ChocolateHQ editorial synthesisChocolateHQ(citation identity confirmed; passage not re-read)
  • The True History of ChocolateThames & Hudson(citation identity confirmed; passage not re-read)