The chocolate houses

For roughly a century, chocolate in Europe was drunk in public rooms that were more expensive and more exclusive than coffee houses — and several of them turned into gentlemen's clubs, which is where their names survive.

Mid-seventeenth to eighteenth centuriesDocumented historyLondon, Paris and other European cities

Chocolate arrived in northern Europe as a drink for people with money and time, and the institution that grew around it reflected that. Chocolate houses appeared in London from the mid-seventeenth century and spread; they served a prepared hot drink, and they functioned as places for conversation, news, politics and — increasingly — gambling.

They are usually described alongside coffee houses and were meaningfully different from them. Coffee houses were comparatively cheap and famously open, with a reputation as places where a man of modest means could sit and argue. Chocolate was dearer, the rooms were more exclusive, and admission was in practice restricted by price and often by subscription.

That exclusivity is why several did not remain public rooms at all. The most successful hardened into private members' clubs over the eighteenth century, retaining the names they had traded under, and the club names that survive in London are the fossil record of the trade.

The drink itself remained close to its Iberian form for a long time — ground cacao prepared with water or milk, spiced, sweetened, frothed and served hot. What changed the institution in the end was not fashion but manufacturing: once chocolate could be pressed, moulded and eaten, the reason to go somewhere to drink it weakened.

Period
Mid-seventeenth to eighteenth centuries
Region
London, Paris and other European cities
Kind of record
Documented history

Significance

It is the social form chocolate took in Europe before it became a manufactured product, and the reason chocolate carried aristocratic associations into the industrial era.

RecordedSource: Thames & Hudson

Related

History and culture

Sources

  • The True History of ChocolateThames & Hudson(citation identity confirmed; passage not re-read)