Regional hybrids and clonal selections

Most cacao planted in the last fifty years is a bred hybrid or a numbered clone, and almost none of it appears on a wrapper. This is the material the four famous names are quietly displacing.

Behind the four trade names sits the material that most modern cacao actually is: hybrids and clonal selections produced by breeding programmes at research stations, distributed to growers through extension services, and identified by codes rather than names — TSH from Trinidad, ICS from the Imperial College collection, EET from Ecuador, IMC and Pound selections from Amazonian collecting expeditions.

These exist because cacao has serious disease problems. Witches' broom, frosty pod rot, black pod and swollen shoot have each collapsed regional industries, and breeding for resistance and yield has been the main institutional response for most of a century.

The consequence for a reader is that a bar labelled Trinitario or Forastero is frequently made from numbered material several generations removed from anything the name originally described. That is not deception; the trade names are the vocabulary consumers have. It is a reason to treat variety claims as indicative rather than precise.

What the name actually classifies

This record covers a heterogeneous set of breeding outputs rather than a population, and is included precisely because the traditional four-name scheme has no way to describe it. A numbered clone may derive from Criollo, Amazonian and Trinitario ancestry in proportions that make any single trade label misleading, and growers and exporters generally map it onto the nearest familiar name when selling.

What is not known

What share of world planting is hybrid or clonal rather than traditional population material is not established in the sources consulted, and it varies enormously by country and by decade of planting. Flavour generalisations across such a varied set of material would be meaningless, and none is offered here.

Also called
improved varieties, TSH, ICS, EET, hybrid cacao
Trade group
genetically reclassified

History

Systematic cacao breeding dates from the early twentieth century, accelerating after each major disease outbreak. Amazonian collecting expeditions in the 1930s and later supplied much of the genetic material the programmes drew on.

Cultivation

Selected principally for disease resistance, yield and early bearing. Distributed through national extension services, which is why particular clones dominate particular countries.

Flavour

Not recorded.

Not applicable

No flavour claim is offered. The category covers material bred for a range of purposes across many decades and continents, and any generalisation across it would describe nothing.

Why the wrapper says Trinitario

Consumers have four words for cacao genetics and the industry has several hundred clone codes. When a bar says Trinitario it usually means the beans are admixed Criollo-Forastero material of the general kind Trinitario describes, which may well be a numbered selection from a breeding programme. The word is doing translation work rather than making a precise claim, and reading it as precise is the error.

Related

Grown in

  • BoliviaIncludes genuinely wild stands in the Beni, which carry diversity outside the commercial gene pool entirely.
  • Costa RicaHome of the CATIE germplasm collection, whose breeding selections are planted well beyond Costa Rica.

Sources

  • ChocolateHQ editorial synthesisChocolateHQ(citation identity confirmed; passage not re-read)
  • Geographic and Genetic Population Differentiation of the Amazonian Chocolate Tree (Theobroma cacao L.)PLoS ONE, 2008(citation identity confirmed; passage not re-read)