Dutch-process vs natural cocoa powder

Not without adjusting the recipe. Natural cocoa is acidic and reacts with bicarbonate of soda; Dutch-process has been alkalised and does not.

Why these get confused

Both are brown powder sold as cocoa, and packaging frequently does not state which it is. The difference is chemical and it determines whether a cake rises.

Side by side

 Dutch-processNaturalWhy it matters
pHAlkalised — treated with an alkalising agent, bringing it to roughly neutral.Untreated and acidic.This single difference drives all the others.
Leavening interactionDoes not react appreciably with bicarbonate of soda. Recipes using it generally call for baking powder.Reacts with bicarbonate of soda to produce carbon dioxide. Recipes using it generally call for bicarbonate.Substituting one for the other without changing the leavening gives either a dense, flat bake or a soapy, metallic taste from unreacted bicarbonate.
ColourDarker, redder to almost black depending on the degree of alkalisation.Lighter reddish-brown.Very dark cocoa in a commercial product is heavily alkalised, not more concentrated.
FlavourSmoother, rounder, less sharp.Sharper and fruitier, with more perceptible acidity.
Flavanol contentSubstantially reduced by alkalisation.Higher.Relevant to anyone reading about cocoa flavanols and health: the processing that makes cocoa taste smoother is also what removes most of the compounds the research concerns.

Choose Dutch-process when

When the recipe specifies it, when baking powder is the leavening, and when a darker colour and smoother flavour are wanted.

Choose Natural when

When the recipe specifies it, when bicarbonate of soda is the leavening, and in uncooked applications where the sharper flavour is an asset.

When the distinction does not matter

In anything unleavened — hot chocolate, ganache, ice cream, sauces, dusting. There the choice is purely about flavour and colour.

Related

Covered in

Sources

  • ChocolateHQ editorial synthesisChocolateHQ(citation identity confirmed; passage not re-read)