German and Austrian chocolate traditions

Central Europe's chocolate culture runs through confectionery and the calendar rather than through bars — Viennese cake, Lübeck marzipan, Saint Nicholas figures, and the advent calendar, which is a German invention now sold worldwide with chocolate behind its doors.

Nineteenth century to the presentLiving practiceGermany and Austria

This is a current practice

All of this is current practice rather than heritage. Sachertorte is made and sold daily in Vienna, advent calendars and Saint Nicholas figures are bought in enormous quantities each December, and Lübeck marzipan remains in production under its protected designation. The record is written in the present tense because the practices are present.

German and Austrian chocolate traditions are organised around occasions and around pastry, which is why they are easy to overlook in an account built on bars.

Vienna's contribution is a cake. The Sachertorte — a dense chocolate cake with apricot glaze under a chocolate icing, created in the 1830s and long associated with the hotel that bears the family name — is the most internationally recognised Austrian chocolate item, and the long-running legal dispute between two Viennese houses over which version could be called the original is itself part of the story: the outcome distinguishes the two by name rather than deciding which is better.

Germany's chocolate calendar is more consequential globally than any single product. The advent calendar originated in German Protestant practice as a way of counting the days to Christmas, moved to printed form in the early twentieth century, and acquired chocolate behind the doors later; it is now a mass-market chocolate format worldwide. Saint Nicholas figures for the sixth of December, moulded hollow and foil-wrapped, are the other calendar fixture and predate the Christmas-morning version of the same idea.

Marzipan sits alongside chocolate rather than inside it, and the two meet constantly — Lübeck's marzipan tradition is protected by geographic designation and much of it is chocolate-coated. Nut and praline confectionery is strong across the region, and hazelnut in particular is a defining flavour.

The modern German market is also, in volume terms, one of Europe's largest for chocolate, with a well-developed discount and mid-market bar sector that shapes what is on shelves across the continent.

Period
Nineteenth century to the present
Region
Germany and Austria
Kind of record
Living practice

Significance

It is the origin of the advent calendar and the Saint Nicholas figure, two chocolate formats that have travelled far beyond the region and structure December confectionery worldwide.

RecordedSource: Thames & Hudson

Related

History and culture

Sources

  • The True History of ChocolateThames & Hudson(citation identity confirmed; passage not re-read)