Dairy-free ganache

Replacing cream means replacing fat and water in a fixed relationship — which is why plant milks fail and plant creams work.

intermediate

A ganache is an emulsion of chocolate in a water-and-fat system, and cream supplies both parts in a proportion that happens to suit it. Substituting a plant alternative works when the substitute has a comparable fat content and fails when it does not, which is the whole of the problem.

Most plant milks are far lower in fat than dairy cream and far higher in water. Used at the same ratio they produce a thin, dull ganache that will not set, and the usual response — adding more chocolate — gives something claggy rather than something correct.

The reliable substitutes are the high-fat ones. Full-fat coconut cream is closest to dairy cream in fat content and behaves most predictably. Oat and soya creams formulated for cooking are the next most reliable. Nut milks, rice milk and the standard drinking versions of oat and soya are not suitable and no adjustment of ratio makes them so.

What it is for
A ganache with no dairy in it, for filled chocolates, tarts, frostings and truffle centres — reaching the same set and the same emulsion stability by a different route.
Working temperature
3240°C — The working range is the same as for a dairy ganache, because the constraint is the chocolate rather than the cream. Coconut fat sets harder than dairy fat below about 20 degrees, so a coconut ganache will be firmer at fridge temperature than the equivalent dairy one.
Does not work with
Milk and white chocolate are not dairy-free, so a dairy-free ganache cannot use them — the plant-milk chocolates are the substitutes and they carry less cocoa solid, so they need a higher chocolate proportion again.

Ratios

ForRatioNote
Coconut cream, dark chocolate2:1 chocolate to full-fat coconut creamBehaves close to the dairy 2:1 because the fat content is comparable. The coconut flavour is present and is either an asset or a problem depending on the application.
Oat or soya cooking cream, dark chocolate5:2 chocolate to plant cream formulated for cooking, around 20 per cent fat or higherSlightly more chocolate than the dairy ratio, to compensate for the lower fat and higher water. Adjust upward if the cream is at the lower end.

Method

  1. 1. Choose a plant cream with a stated fat content, and read it. This decides the ratio and nothing else in the process compensates for getting it wrong.

    Where people go wrong: Using a drinking plant milk. There is not enough fat in it to form a stable emulsion at any ratio.

  2. 2. Warm the plant cream to just below a simmer, and pour it over finely chopped chocolate.

    Where people go wrong: Not shaking or stirring canned coconut cream first. It separates in the tin, and pouring off the thin layer gives an unpredictable fat content.

  3. 3. Leave a minute, then stir from the centre outwards until glossy and combined.

  4. 4. If it looks broken or greasy, blend with a stick blender kept fully submerged.

    Where people go wrong: Lifting the blender head. It draws in air, which shortens the ganache's life and dulls the surface.

When it goes wrong

SymptomCauseFix
Will not setThe plant cream was too low in fat and too high in water.Melt down and add more chocolate, and use a higher-fat cream next time. This is a diagnosis, not a repair.
Separated and oilyCoconut cream that had separated in the tin, or the emulsion broken by overheating.Stick blender, head submerged. Shake or warm the tin thoroughly before opening next time.
Tastes strongly of coconutWorking as designed. Coconut cream carries its own flavour.Use a refined coconut product where available, or switch to an oat or soya cooking cream where the coconut is unwanted.
Grainy after a day in the fridgeCoconut fat crystallising, which it does more readily than dairy fat.Bring to a cool room temperature before serving. It is a temperature effect rather than a broken emulsion.

What this will not work with

Milk and white chocolate are not dairy-free, so a dairy-free ganache cannot use them — the plant-milk chocolates are the substitutes and they carry less cocoa solid, so they need a higher chocolate proportion again.

Why the fat content is the only number that matters

A ganache is chocolate dispersed in a continuous water phase, stabilised by fat and by the emulsifiers already present in the chocolate. Too much water relative to fat and the emulsion cannot hold; the chocolate seizes or the mixture stays thin and dull.

Dairy cream sits at a fat content that makes the classic ratios work. Every plant substitute is a question of how far it is from that, which is why the useful instruction is 'read the fat percentage on the carton' rather than a list of approved brands. A 30 per cent oat cream and an 18 per cent one are different ingredients.

Related

Works with

  • Dark chocolateReplacing cream means replacing fat and water in a fixed relationship — which is why plant milks fail and plant creams work.
  • Vegan chocolateReplacing cream means replacing fat and water in a fixed relationship — which is why plant milks fail and plant creams work.
  • Plant-milk chocolateReplacing cream means replacing fat and water in a fixed relationship — which is why plant milks fail and plant creams work.

Sources

  • ChocolateHQ editorial synthesisChocolateHQ(citation identity confirmed; passage not re-read)
  • The Science of ChocolateRoyal Society of Chemistry(citation identity confirmed; passage not re-read)