Woody

Cedar, oak and dry timber. At low levels a characteristic; at higher levels it usually means shell left in the nib.

Woody character has two quite different sources and the practical consequence differs completely. A gentle cedar or oak quality is part of the earthy register that long fermentation produces, and it is a legitimate characteristic.

A papery, dry, distinctly woody note is generally residual cocoa shell that winnowing failed to remove. Shell is fibrous, tastes woody, and does not grind out — so it is one of the few flavour faults that is a mechanical failure rather than a chemical one, and it is much more common in very small-scale production where winnowing is hard to do efficiently.

Descriptors used
cedar, oak, dry wood, papery, cigar box
Desirable?
Acceptable and even prized at low levels; a clear fault when papery. Small-scale bars are the ones to watch.

Where it comes from

The route by which this note arrives in the chocolate.

  • Created during fermentation

    Inferred

    Long fermentation produces the deep, low-acid register in which woody notes emerge.

    How to tell: Fermentation-derived woodiness is warm and sits alongside tobacco and dried fruit. It is pleasant.

    Source: Wiley-Blackwell

When it is a fault

Residual shell left in the nib after inefficient winnowing. Shell is fibrous and tastes papery, and does not grind out.

How to tell: Shell-derived woodiness is dry and papery rather than warm, and often comes with a slight grittiness.

Recorded Source: Royal Society of Chemistry

Related

Developed during

  • FermentationThis stage is where the note is created, amplified or destroyed. Cedar, oak and dry timber. At low levels a characteristic; at higher levels it usually means shell left in the nib.
  • WinnowingThis stage is where the note is created, amplified or destroyed. Cedar, oak and dry timber. At low levels a characteristic; at higher levels it usually means shell left in the nib.

Sources

  • ChocolateHQ editorial synthesisChocolateHQ(citation identity confirmed; passage not re-read)
  • The Science of ChocolateRoyal Society of Chemistry(citation identity confirmed; passage not re-read)