Drying

Bringing the beans down to a storable moisture content, slowly enough to let the acid escape and the enzymatic reactions finish.

Step 11 of 43At origin, within days of harvest

After fermentation the beans are around half water and must come down to roughly seven per cent to be stored and shipped without moulding. Done in the sun on raised platforms, patios or drying tables, this takes about a week with regular raking.

The pace matters as much as the endpoint. Drying slowly lets volatile acetic acid evaporate out of the bean and lets oxidative reactions begun in fermentation run to completion. Dried too fast — typically with artificial heat — the shell hardens and traps acid inside, producing chocolate that tastes sharp and sour no matter how well it was fermented. Dried too slowly, in humid or rainy conditions, and mould takes hold.

What it does

Reduces moisture from roughly 50% to around 7%, allows residual acetic acid to evaporate, and lets oxidative reactions begun during fermentation complete.

Why it matters

It is the last chance for the acid produced in fermentation to leave the bean. Once the bean is dry and shipped, any acid still inside is in the finished chocolate.

Typical duration
514 days, commonly 7
Why the range is wide
Duration depends entirely on climate and method. Sun drying in a dry season is a week; the same beans under artificial heat can be dry in a day, which is precisely the problem.

What it does to the flavour

Removes volatile acidity and completes oxidative browning. Does not add flavour of its own; determines how much of the fermentation's acid remains.

RecordedSource: Wiley-Blackwell

Variants

  • Sun drying on raised beds. The standard for fine-flavour cacao. Slow, controllable, and dependent on weather.
  • Artificial drying. Used where the harvest coincides with the rainy season. Necessary in some climates and a common cause of trapped acidity when run too hot.

When it goes wrong

Forced drying that seals the bean and traps acetic acid — the finished chocolate tastes sharply sour and vinegary. Alternatively, slow drying in humid conditions allowing mould, which produces musty notes that carry all the way through. Smoke taint from drying over wood fires is a third, and is unmistakable in the cup.

Related

Flavour developed here

  • AcidicDrying decides how much of the fermentation's acetic acid escapes and how much is sealed into the bean — the difference between brightness and sourness.
  • FruityThis stage is where the note is created, amplified or destroyed. Red fruit, citrus, tropical fruit and dried fruit. The most sought-after family in craft chocolate, and the one whose causes are most often misattributed.
  • EarthyThis stage is where the note is created, amplified or destroyed. Forest floor, mushroom, tobacco, leather. Legitimate character at one intensity and a mould defect at another.
  • CitrusThis stage is where the note is created, amplified or destroyed. Orange, lemon, bergamot. The note most often confused with a fault, because citrus and sourness sit on the same axis.
  • MushroomThis stage is where the note is created, amplified or destroyed. Forest floor and damp earth. Sits directly on the boundary between a characteristic and a mould fault.
  • MustyThis stage is where the note is created, amplified or destroyed. Mould. A storage and drying fault, and one of the few chocolate defects that is genuinely unrecoverable at every subsequent stage.

Covered in

Sources

  • ChocolateHQ editorial synthesisChocolateHQ(citation identity confirmed; passage not re-read)
  • Chocolate Science and TechnologyWiley-Blackwell(citation identity confirmed; passage not re-read)