Dutch-process cocoa

Cocoa powder treated with an alkali to neutralise its acidity. Darker, smoother, less sharp — and inert with bicarbonate of soda.

An ingredient form — this is a component rather than a finished productaccessible

What it is

Dutch-processing treats cocoa with an alkalising agent, raising its pH towards neutral. The result is darker, sometimes almost black at high treatment levels, smoother and rounder in flavour, and more readily dispersed in liquid.

The process is named for the nineteenth-century Dutch chemist whose cocoa press made the powder industry possible, and it was developed to make cocoa palatable as a drink. It succeeds: alkalised cocoa is markedly less harsh.

What it costs is flavanol content, which alkalisation reduces substantially, and reactivity — with the acid neutralised, bicarbonate of soda has nothing to react with, so recipes using Dutch-process cocoa generally call for baking powder instead. Very dark commercial cocoa is heavily alkalised rather than more concentrated, which is worth knowing before paying for the colour.

Category kind
An ingredient form — this is a component rather than a finished product
Legal status
Industry convention, not a legal definition
Also called
alkalised cocoa, dutched cocoa, cacao alcalinizado
Flavour families
roasted, earthy, bitter

What the percentage means here

As with any cocoa powder, a percentage refers to residual fat. Colour is not a proxy for strength: a very black cocoa has been heavily alkalised, not concentrated.

Working with it

Pairs with baking powder. Disperses more readily in liquid than natural cocoa, which is why drinking-chocolate powders are almost always alkalised.

Commonly misunderstood

That darker cocoa is stronger cocoa. The colour comes from the alkali, and heavy alkalisation reduces both flavanol content and some of the fruitier aromatic notes.

How it is regulated

The EU instrument permits alkalising agents in cocoa products up to a specified proportion of the dry cocoa, and requires the treatment to be declared. That is a limit rather than a standard of identity: 'Dutch-process' is a description of what was done, not a legally reserved name, and the degree of treatment varies enormously between products carrying it.

Related

Commonly confused with

  • Natural cocoa powderBoth are brown powder sold as cocoa, and packaging frequently states neither. The difference determines whether a cake rises.

Defined by

  • AlkalisationThe step the product is named for. It is what makes Dutch-process cocoa inert with bicarbonate of soda.

Health topics covering this

Covered in

Compared in

Techniques that work with this

  • Baking with cocoa powderThe most efficient way to make something taste strongly of chocolate — and the ingredient that decides which leavening the recipe needs.
  • Choosing chocolate for a cakeCocoa powder for depth of flavour, melted chocolate for richness and density. Most good cakes use both.
  • Chocolate ice creamNeeds more chocolate than seems reasonable, because cold suppresses aroma — and the fat makes it set harder than a vanilla base.

Sources

  • ChocolateHQ editorial synthesisChocolateHQ(citation identity confirmed; passage not re-read)
  • Directive 2000/36/EC of the European Parliament and of the Council relating to cocoa and chocolate products intended for human consumptionEuropean Parliament and Council of the European Union, 2000(citation identity confirmed; passage not re-read)
  • The Science of ChocolateRoyal Society of Chemistry(citation identity confirmed; passage not re-read)