Ripeness assessment

Deciding which pods to cut, on a tree carrying pods at every stage of development at once. It is the first quality decision in the chain and it is made by eye and by ear, tree by tree.

Step 3 of 46At origin, within days of harvest

Cacao does not ripen as a crop. A single tree carries flowers, immature pods and mature pods simultaneously, and pods on the same trunk reach readiness weeks apart. Harvest is therefore a repeated pass rather than an event, and each pass is a judgement about which individual pods are ready.

The cues are learnt rather than universal. Skin colour changes as a pod ripens, but the direction of the change depends on the genetic material — some pods run green to yellow, others deep purple or red to orange — so a colour rule learnt on one farm can be wrong on the next. Harvesters also use sound, tapping a pod and listening for the hollower note that develops as the pulp loosens from the shell, and feel, since the ridges soften slightly.

The decision is made under time and labour pressure, and that is what makes it a quality variable rather than a technicality. Stripping a tree in one pass is faster than returning to it three times, and it mixes unripe and overripe pods into the same fermentation.

What it does

Selects which pods enter the batch, and therefore what pulp sugar and bean maturity the fermentation will have to work with.

Why it matters

Fermentation runs on the sugars in the pulp. Unripe pods carry less developed pulp with less sugar, so a batch containing them ferments unevenly — part of the mass runs to completion while part of it never had the substrate to get there. Nothing downstream separates the two again.

What it does to the flavour

Consistent ripeness at harvest is a precondition for an even ferment, which is in turn the precondition for developed, non-astringent flavour. Mixed ripeness expresses itself later as a flat, uneven, often astringent profile rather than as any distinct flavour of its own.

RecordedSource: Wiley-Blackwell

Variants

  • Sequential harvest. Repeated passes at intervals, cutting only ready pods. Higher labour cost, more even batches.
  • Single-pass harvest. Stripping trees in one operation. Lower labour cost, mixed maturity in the fermentation.

When it goes wrong

Harvesting the whole tree in one pass to save labour, mixing unripe and overripe pods. Overripe pods may also have begun germinating internally, and germinated beans are a recognised defect.

Commonly misunderstood

That ripe cacao pods are a particular colour. Ripening colour depends on the genetics and runs in different directions in different material; there is no single ripe colour for cacao.

Related

Flavour developed here

  • AstringentUnripe pods carry less pulp sugar, so a batch containing them ferments incompletely and retains the polyphenols that read as astringency. Recorded as inferred because the pathway runs through fermentation rather than directly from harvest.

Commonly confused with

  • HarvestingHarvesting is the act of cutting pods down; ripeness assessment is the judgement about which ones to cut. Treating them as one operation is what produces the single-pass harvest that mixes maturities.

Required by

  • Dark chocolateEvery bar begins with a decision about which pods were ready to cut. Mixed maturity at harvest produces an uneven ferment, and dark chocolate — with no milk solids or high sugar to mask it — shows the resulting flatness most plainly.

Techniques that depend on this

  • Setting up a chocolate tastingA taster attributing flatness or astringency to an origin is frequently tasting a harvest decision. Knowing that ripeness varies pod by pod is what separates an origin characteristic from a batch fault.

Sources

  • Chocolate Science and TechnologyWiley-Blackwell(citation identity confirmed; passage not re-read)
  • The Science of ChocolateRoyal Society of Chemistry(citation identity confirmed; passage not re-read)