A claim about a country generalises across thousands of farms and dozens of fermentation protocols. A claim about one of these can be right. Where a region has evidence and depth of its own it has a page; where it does not, it is described here rather than given a thin one.
La Convención
A valley in the Cusco region of Peru, on the eastern slope of the Andes where they descend into the Amazon. It is the home of Chuncho, a native cacao population cultivated there for centuries and traded locally long before it was described internationally.
Cloud forest at the transition between Andes and Amazon, at higher altitude than most cacao. Grown in mixed smallholder cultivation, frequently alongside coffee.
Flavour character
Chuncho material from here is often described as intensely aromatic with red fruit and floral notes.
InferredSource: ChocolateHQ
Based on a small number of speciality lots. Pod and bean size are small, which is often cited as characteristic but is also affected by cultivation.
Covered here rather than on a page of its own
A dry canyon in northern Peru where a USDA-led collection programme identified surviving Nacional cacao — material long assumed to be Ecuadorian and effectively lost — during expeditions that genotyped hundreds of specimens across a dozen watersheds.
A deep, comparatively dry canyon in the Amazonas region at altitudes well above the humid lowland cacao belt. The climate is unusual for cacao: the canyon is arid by cacao standards and the crop depends on the river system rather than on year-round rainfall.
Flavour character
Described commercially as unusually mild and low in bitterness for a high-percentage cacao, which is consistent with the reduced anthocyanin content of white beans. The mechanism is compositional; the sensory descriptions are the marketer's.
InferredSources: USDA Agricultural Research Service (2011), ChocolateHQ
Has a page of its own
A department in northern Peru whose traditional white-bean cacao carries a published genetic finding of its own: its wild progenitors trace to the same river valleys, implying domestication in northern Peru rather than introduction from elsewhere.
Dry tropical valleys in the north-west, notably in the Morropón and Huancabamba provinces, at the arid end of the range cacao tolerates. Cultivation depends on river valleys and irrigation, and the region sits close to the boundary where cacao stops being viable — which is part of why its material is genetically distinctive.
Flavour character
Trade descriptions of Piura white cacao run to citrus, honey and a light body, and are distinguished in the same descriptions from the softer, nuttier character attributed to Venezuelan Porcelana. These are commercial sensory accounts.
InferredSource: ChocolateHQ
Has a page of its own
San Martín
A department in Peru's central jungle and one of the country's largest cacao producing areas. Much of the planting dates from crop substitution programmes, and CCN-51 is widely grown alongside native and hybrid material — which makes it a region where the variety question is unusually live.
Humid tropical lowland and foothills, with cooperative organisation widespread and substantial organic certification.
Flavour character
Varies widely with the material planted; cooperative lots are often described as nutty with moderate fruit.
Sources disagreeSource: ChocolateHQ
The mix of CCN-51 and native material within one department means a regional flavour claim is weaker here than elsewhere in Peru.
Covered here rather than on a page of its own
Ucayali
A Peruvian Amazon region where cacao grows within the species' natural range, with both cultivated planting and wild or semi-wild stands. Genetic diversity here is high, which is characteristic of the upper Amazon generally.
Lowland Amazon rainforest with high rainfall, much of it accessible mainly by river.
Flavour character
Not recorded.
Not recorded by the sources consulted
ChocolateHQ has found no consistent flavour description for Ucayali material across the sources consulted, and does not invent one.
Covered here rather than on a page of its own