Melting chocolate

The most basic technique and the one with the two most common disasters: seizing from water, and scorching from heat.

beginner

Melting chocolate is simple and has two specific failure modes, both of which are irreversible and both of which are counterintuitive.

Seizing is caused by a small amount of water — a drop of condensation, a damp spoon, steam from a bain-marie. Chocolate is a suspension of dry particles in fat, and a little water makes the sugar and cocoa particles clump together into a stiff paste. The counterintuitive part is that a lot of water is fine: adding enough liquid to make a ganache produces a smooth result. It is only the small amount that ruins it.

Scorching happens at temperatures far lower than most people expect, and white and milk chocolate burn well before dark.

What it is for
To bring chocolate to a fluid state without seizing it or scorching it.
Working temperature
4050°C — Dark chocolate tolerates up to about 50°C. Milk and white should not exceed about 45°C — their milk solids scorch, and the result is a grainy texture and a burnt-milk taste that cannot be removed.

Method

  1. 1. Chop evenly. Uneven pieces mean the small ones overheat while the large ones are still solid.

  2. 2. Heat gently — a bowl over barely simmering water that does not touch the bowl, or a microwave at short intervals with stirring between.

    Where people go wrong: A bain-marie whose water touches the bowl or boils hard enough to send steam up the sides. Both are the classic route to seizing.

  3. 3. Stop while a few small pieces are still visible and stir until they disappear in the residual heat.

    Where people go wrong: Heating until everything is molten, which reliably takes dark chocolate past 50°C and milk or white considerably past their limit.

When it goes wrong

SymptomCauseFix
Thick, dull, grainy paste appears suddenlySeizing, from a small quantity of water.Cannot be returned to smooth melted chocolate. Add substantially more liquid — around a tablespoon per 50g — and use it as a sauce or ganache.
Gritty texture with a burnt smellScorched, most often milk or white chocolate taken above about 45°C.Not recoverable. Start again at a lower temperature.

Related

Requires understanding

  • TemperingMelting destroys the crystal structure tempering created, which is why anything melted must be re-tempered before it will set properly.
  • Roll refiningRefining sets the particle size distribution that determines how a chocolate flows once melted, which is why two bars at the same percentage behave differently in the bowl.

An easier starting point than

  • Tempering chocolateMelting without seizing is the prerequisite skill, and tempering fails for anyone who has not got it yet.

Works with

  • Compound chocolateCompound is melted and used with no tempering at all — the one case where melting is the whole technique.
  • Dark chocolateThe most basic technique and the one with the two most common disasters: seizing from water, and scorching from heat.
  • Milk chocolateThe most basic technique and the one with the two most common disasters: seizing from water, and scorching from heat.
  • White chocolateThe most basic technique and the one with the two most common disasters: seizing from water, and scorching from heat.

Covered in

Compared in

Sources

  • ChocolateHQ editorial synthesisChocolateHQ(citation identity confirmed; passage not re-read)
  • The Science of ChocolateRoyal Society of Chemistry(citation identity confirmed; passage not re-read)